Introduction: Rediscovering a Lost Landscape in Cataract Canyon adventure
The Colorado River, one of North America‘s most iconic waterways, is a lifeline that spans over 1,450 miles, weaving through the arid landscapes of seven U.S. states and two Mexican states. Imagine navigating rapids that haven’t been seen in decades and camping on newly formed beaches that emerged only a few months ago. Welcome to Cataract Canyon, an otherworldly stretch of the Colorado River that has transformed from a submerged landscape to a wild, dynamic environment.In this guide, we’ll explore the remarkable re-emergence of Cataract Canyon in southern Utah’s Canyonlands National Park, a place where the forces of nature are reclaiming the river from the grips of a shrinking reservoir(Cataract Canyon adventure).
The Return of Cataract Canyon: A River Reborn
The Colorado River’s muddy currents carry adventurers through the towering red rock walls of Cataract Canyon, a journey marked by the roar of rapids that have been submerged for nearly six decades. As the river rushes downstream, it pulls up to a small white-sand beach, a rare spot where Gypsum Creek meets the Colorado. This secluded area, once submerged under 60 feet of water, is now a pristine campsite where adventurers can sleep under the stars.
Just ten years ago, this entire landscape was hidden beneath the still waters of Lake Powell, a vast reservoir created by the Glen Canyon Dam in 1963. The dam flooded 186 miles of the Colorado River and its side canyons, burying them under layers of sediment as the river’s current slowed to a halt. However, the last decade has seen a dramatic change as Lake Powell’s water levels have dropped, revealing the river’s natural course and allowing it to flow freely once again.
The Impact of Lake Powell’s Decline in Cataract Canyon adventure
The declining water levels of Lake Powell are a result of overuse by the 40 million people who depend on the Colorado River, combined with reduced precipitation due to climate change. While these circumstances are concerning, they have also provided a silver lining: as the reservoir recedes, the Colorado River is carving through the thick sediment, revealing rapids, beaches, and landscapes that have been hidden for generations.
The campsite where our journey begins is a prime example. The beach only appeared earlier this year, and the spot where we set up our kitchen was once the center of a calm bay, submerged under vast amounts of water. Before 2023, the rapid downstream was one of a series of fierce torrents that made Cataract Canyon one of the most challenging whitewater stretches in the United States. Today, ten of Cataract’s historic rapids have re-emerged, with more likely to follow.
The Returning Rapids Project: Documenting a River’s Revival
The journey through Cataract Canyon is more than just a rafting adventure; it’s an expedition of re-discovery. I’m part of a raft trip with the Returning Rapids Project, an initiative documenting the changes occurring as the river restores itself. Two of the project’s founders, Mike DeHoff and Pete Lefebvre, are former river guides who experienced the canyon when Lake Powell was full. Today, they guide trips down this stretch, offering adventurers a rare opportunity to witness the return of a lost landscape on a grand scale.
Cataract Canyon, a place nearly as stunning as the Grand Canyon just 31 miles away, is home to cultural and historical sites, as well as some of the most storied whitewater on the Colorado River. The canyon is re-emerging for the first time since it was flooded two generations ago, making each trip a unique exploration of both natural beauty and human history.
A Journey Through History: The Challenges of Cataract Canyon
Cataract Canyon’s 41 miles of river, punctuated by more than 50 fierce rapids, have long been a source of trepidation for adventurers. Early boating expeditions often ended in disaster, with many wooden boats pinned, flipped, or damaged by the powerful rapids. The canyon earned the nickname “Graveyard of the Colorado” due to the high number of lost expeditions.
John Wesley Powell, an early explorer who mapped the river in 1869, described the rapids as “great waterfalls, or cataracts.” By 1911, only four successful runs had been recorded, with seven other attempts ending in tragedy. When rubber rafts became popular, Cataract Canyon became a beloved destination for adrenaline seekers, celebrated for its challenging whitewater, often considered more formidable than even the Grand Canyon.
However, when Lake Powell flooded the canyon, more than half of its rapids were submerged. By the turn of the century, a guided trip down Cataract Canyon involved rafting just 14 miles of whitewater, with the journey ending abruptly at Big Drop Three. From there, motorized rafts would navigate the flat lake water, sharing the space with houseboats and water skiers, with no trace of the wild river that once flowed freely.
The Adventure Continues: Navigating Gypsum Rapid
The following morning, we gear up to run Gypsum Rapid, one of the most challenging sections of the canyon. Since navigating Big Drop Three, we’ve encountered several resurrected rapids, but none as formidable as Gypsum. In 1938, one expedition described the rapid as a place where the river seemed to disappear over a horizon line, hiding an enormous standing wave that flipped boats end over end.
As recently as 2017, Gypsum Rapid was still dormant under flat water, buried under layers of sediment. However, by 2023, it had returned to nearly its former power. As our raft speeds toward the rapid, I can see the current exploding over a boulder the size of a small bus. My heart races, but DeHoff, our guide, expertly navigates the boat through the treacherous waters.
The Power of Nature: A Dynamic Environment in Cataract Canyon adventure
As we continue down the river, the evidence of nature’s power to recover is everywhere. Willows have sprouted along the riverbanks, beavers have returned to the area, and songbirds fill the air with their calls. We stop to explore a petroglyph, an ancient rock drawing that has re-emerged in recent years. Flynn, one of the project’s founders, is hopeful that another historical marker will soon resurface: a large rock where early expeditions carved their names as a testament to surviving Cataract Canyon.
Our journey takes us to Clearwater, a side canyon that was once navigable by boat but is now accessible only on foot. As we hike along a trickling creek, Lefebvre shares that river guides are using the field notes compiled by the Returning Rapids Project to document changes and highlight newly emerged landmarks for their guests.
The Challenges Ahead: Nature’s Unfinished Work
Despite the river’s recovery, challenges remain. The further we travel downstream, the more we encounter walls of dried sediment, some as high as 50 feet. These walls are remnants of the sediment deposited during Lake Powell’s existence, and they often collapse into the river in massive avalanches. Finding a campsite in these lower reaches of Cataract Canyon can be difficult and messy due to the unconsolidated mud.
The river’s restoration is far from complete. The Colorado River cannot fully recover without human intervention to manage the displaced sediment. Currently, there is no plan to address this issue, leaving the river’s future uncertain.
Conclusion: The Ever-Changing Face of Cataract Canyon
Cataract Canyon, with its dynamic environment and the ongoing re-emergence of rapids and landscapes, offers a sense of adventure unique to this stretch of the Colorado River. Experts agree that Lake Powell is unlikely to refill in this era of climate change, meaning that more rapids will return and more stories from the past will surface. For years to come, a trip down Cataract Canyon will offer a rare glimpse into the power of nature to reclaim and restore, making it one of the most captivating adventures in the American West.
