The Hidden Gem of England: Exploring the River Waveney
The River Waveney, a serene and historic waterway, remains one of England’s best-kept secrets. Although it played a crucial role in the wild swimming movement in Britain, many people remain unaware of its existence. Immortalized by the late naturalist Roger Deakin in his pioneering book, Waterlog, this river has become a symbol of escape, adventure, and the healing power of natural water.
The Legacy of Roger Deakin and the Birth of Wild Swimming
Roger Deakin, a passionate naturalist and wild swimmer, lived for 26 years in a 16th-century farmhouse in Mellis, just four miles south of the Waveney. His daily swims in the river’s moat sparked the idea for his book, Waterlog: A Swimmer’s Journey Through Britain, published 25 years ago. This book, which celebrates the joys of outdoor swimming, is credited with igniting Britain’s wild swimming movement. Deakin’s love for the Waveney is evident throughout the book, where he describes the river as a “secret” waterway, filled with hidden swimming holes, sandy beaches, and an ever-changing character.
The Waveney’s Scenic Route: A Journey Through Time
The River Waveney flows for 59 miles along the Norfolk-Suffolk border in East Anglia, before merging with the River Yare and eventually reaching the sea at Great Yarmouth. The river meanders through picturesque landscapes, passing by ancient drainage mills, award-winning vineyards, cheese dairies, craft breweries, and charming indie cafes. The Waveney is also home to a diverse array of wildlife, including otters, kingfishers, endangered lapwings, and water voles.
Discovering the Waveney by Bike, Canoe, and Foot
For those looking to explore the Waveney, there are several ways to experience its beauty and history. Cycling along the river is a popular option, as the gently undulating river valley offers a scenic route with minimal traffic. Deakin himself often biked to his wild swimming destinations, enjoying the “gliding, swooping motion” of the bike, which he compared to the grace of swimming.
Canoeing is another fantastic way to discover the river. Deakin documented his own paddling adventures along the Waveney in a BBC radio documentary, where he traveled from the river’s source at Redgrave and Lopham Fen to the Geldeston Locks in a canoe named Cigarette. Along the way, paddlers can explore hidden pools, sandy beaches, and the dense oak forests that line the riverbanks.
Walking is also a great way to experience the Waveney. The Angles Way, a long-distance footpath, follows the river for much of its length, offering stunning views and a chance to discover the rich history of the surrounding villages.
Hoxne: A Village Steeped in History
One of the most fascinating stops along the Waveney is the village of Hoxne, located five miles west of Diss. This quaint village is home to some extraordinary stories, including that of Edmund the Martyr, the 9th-century king of East Anglia and England’s original patron saint. Legend has it that Edmund was betrayed by his golden spurs, which were reflected in the water of Goldbrook Bridge, leading to his capture and eventual execution. Today, a memorial stands at the site of his capture, and the story of Edmund continues to be a source of intrigue for visitors.
Hoxne is also famous for the discovery of the largest hoard of Roman gold and silver ever found in the UK, a treasure trove of 15,000 coins unearthed by a local resident in 1992. After exploring the village, visitors can enjoy a pint at the timbered Swan Inn, a historic pub that has served locals and travelers for centuries.
The Charm of Mendham and Wortwell
Continuing along the Waveney, cyclists and walkers will come across the village of Mendham, where the river meanders through water meadows and under ancient bridges. Mendham is the birthplace of Sir Alfred Munnings, one of England’s most celebrated painters of horses, whose early works depict life in the Waveney Valley.
The following morning, visitors can explore Wortwell, a village with a striking white weatherboard watermill that dates back to the Domesday Book. The mill, which is first mentioned in William the Conqueror’s land survey of England, is a reminder of the area’s rich agricultural history.
Bungay: A Town of Enigma and History
Further along the Waveney lies the town of Bungay, known for its enigmatic history and charming streets. The river forms an oxbow curve around Bungay, creating a unique landscape that is perfect for canoeing. In his book, Deakin describes swimming in the Waveney near Bungay and encountering an otter, a moment that captures the wild and untouched nature of the river.
Bungay is also home to a 12th-century castle and a vibrant cultural scene, with indie shops, cafes, and an annual festival dedicated to the legendary Black Shuck, a demonic hound said to haunt the area.
The Beauty of Ellingham Mill and the Locks Inn
One of the most enchanting scenes along the Waveney is the white weather-boarded Ellingham Mill, which overlooks a tranquil river pool frequented by swans. From here, the rural Geldeston Road leads to the Locks Inn, a historic pub right on the water known for its live music and lively atmosphere. Deakin himself stopped here for a pint after one of his paddling adventures.
The Waveney’s Final Stretch: Beccles to Oulton Broad
The Waveney’s journey continues past the town of Beccles, which sits high on a cliff above the river. This historic town is a great place to explore by foot or by kayak, with guided tours available through local operators. The river then disappears into the marshes, reemerging at the beautiful Carlton Marshes Nature Reserve, where visitors can spot rare birds, deer, and other wildlife.
The marshlands lead to Oulton Broad, a picturesque spur of the Waveney that is perfect for a leisurely bike ride or a peaceful walk along the water’s edge. The journey ends at the timber-framed, octagonal Herringfleet smock drainage mill, a unique structure that is the last of its kind on the Broads.
Conclusion: The Timeless Appeal of the River Waveney
The River Waveney offers a unique escape into a world of natural beauty, history, and adventure. Whether exploring by bike, canoe, or on foot, visitors are sure to be captivated by the river’s charm and the stories it holds. As Roger Deakin once said, the Waveney is a “secret” river, but for those who take the time to discover it, the experience is nothing short of magical.
