The Hidden ‘Eagle’s Nest’ City that Alexander the Great Couldn’t Conquer: Termessos, Turkey
Introduction: Termessos ancient city
High in the mountains of southwestern Turkey lies Termessos, a once-powerful city that even Alexander the Great failed to conquer. Today, this incredible site, perched like a fortified eagle’s nest, remains largely deserted, offering a unique adventure for those willing to hike to its heights.
A Deserted Gem
Termessos is an archaeological jewel, preserved in isolation and seen by only a few visitors who venture from the nearby beach resorts of Antalya. This isolation is both a shame for those who miss it and a bonus for those who explore it, allowing them to wander one of Turkey’s most impressive ancient cities in solitude.
An Atmosphere of History and Nature
The atmosphere in Termessos is a blend of history and landscape, views and silence, nature and destruction. This combination creates one of the Mediterranean’s great unsung archaeological wonders. Over time, vegetation has slowly swallowed the gigantic mausoleums, vast underground cisterns, temples, imposing city walls, and a breathtaking theater perched on a hilltop with views stretching for miles.
Getting to Termessos
Despite its remote feeling, Termessos is relatively easy to reach. A 45-minute drive from Antalya’s bustling downtown brings visitors to the gates of Mount Güllük-Termessos National Park, a protected wildlife haven surrounding the ruins. After paying a small entrance fee, visitors drive another 10 minutes into the pine and gorse-clad hills along a winding road reaching about 1,000 meters above sea level.
The Adventure Begins in Termessos ancient city
The road ends in what seems like an unremarkable parking lot with a public restroom, but this was once a giant agora, a bustling marketplace 2,000 years ago. Here begins the adventure into Termessos, starting with the tombs of its rich and mighty.
Tomb Raiders
Hidden by vegetation at one end of the agora are the stone-strewn remains of a grand street lined with the tombs of Termessos’ elite. Ancient sarcophagi, some carved with shields and spears for warriors, lie scattered. Over centuries, raiders have broken into these tombs, leaving them smashed and pried open despite once being locked shut with metal clasps.
The Uphill Hike
Reaching the heart of Termessos involves an uphill hike along a leafy pathway that can be rough and steep in places. Visitors need sturdy footwear and should be prepared for mildly strenuous hiking. Summer visitors are advised to come early before temperatures rise and to bring plenty of water.
Defending Termessos
Soon, the lower city walls come into view, a testament to how well-defended Termessos was when it was built, possibly around the fourth or fifth century BCE, long before the Romans arrived. The people of Termessos, known as Solyms, were descendants of the Luwians, an ancient civilization spread across what is now Turkey.
The Strategic Location in Termessos ancient city
The Solyms’ choice of location showed a genius for strategic thinking. Situated on a major trade route, Termessos grew wealthy from goods and payments from those traveling to and from the Mediterranean. Its altitude and commanding views made it easy to defend, which is why Alexander the Great, despite multiple attempts, failed to invade or blockade the city in 333 BCE. He reputedly called it an “eagle’s nest.”
Roman Influence
Later, the Romans succeeded in controlling Termessos, not through force but by offering autonomy under Roman “protection.” The city continued to thrive under this arrangement, although it was eventually destroyed by an earthquake, possibly in the fourth or fifth century.
Sophisticated Life in Termessos
Climbing higher up the hillside reveals more evidence of how sophisticated life in Termessos was. The marble ruins of the city’s gymnasium, a training ground for soldiers, complete with a bathhouse and refectory, still stand. The gymnasium’s palaestra, used for wrestling and combat training, is now littered with terracotta roof tiles.
The City Walls and Water Systems
Further up, the upper city walls provide commanding views of the forest below and evidence of a sophisticated water drainage system. With few natural water sources, Termessos relied on gigantic multi-chambered underground cisterns carved by hand into solid rock. Capable of holding up to 1,500 tons of water, these cisterns were vital during blockades.
The Assembly House and Luxury Shops
Nearby, the imposing outer wall of the bouleuterion, or assembly house, marks another central agora dating back to pre-Roman times. The ruins of a colonnaded street that once housed the city’s most exclusive shops can also be seen. This area was akin to the Champs-Élysées, where the wealthy spent their money on the finest goods from around the Mediterranean.
The Showstopper: The Theater
The crowning jewel of Termessos is its theater, perched on the city’s highest point. With room for about 4,000 people, the semi-circle of stone terraces faces the ruins of what would have been a stage. The theater predated the Romans but was later updated along Roman lines. Its location, opposite a mountain once sacred to the city’s inhabitants, offers breathtaking views that stretch as far as the port of Antalya on clear days.
A Living History Lesson in Termessos ancient city
Exploring Termessos is like stepping back in time. The theater and other ruins bring the ancient city to life, allowing visitors to imagine what life was like nearly 2,000 years ago when such theaters were used by the Romans as a tool of soft power.
A Guide’s Perspective
Önder Uğuz, an art teacher and licensed guide from Antalya, has been captivated by Termessos since he first visited as a student in 1996. He offers tours of the site and other archaeological sites in the area but is particularly drawn to the tranquility and beauty of Termessos. He enjoys soaking in the vistas from the city’s upper walls, often accompanied by his wife.
Conclusion: Termessos ancient city
Termessos offers a unique blend of history, nature, and solitude. Its preserved ruins, commanding views, and rich history make it a must-visit for those interested in ancient civilizations. The tranquility and beauty of this hidden ancient wonder continue to draw visitors seeking a peaceful and enriching experience.
