Introduction
Embark on a journey along The Ridgeway, Britain‘s oldest road, an 87-mile prehistoric pathway traversing the chalk hills of southern England. This ancient track offers a unique opportunity to walk in the footsteps of Celtic druids, Saxon kings, and Victorian poets.
Discovering The Ridgeway
Walking Through History
Setting off from Avebury in Wiltshire, the tranquility of The Ridgeway quickly becomes evident. Despite being in a densely populated region, the path provides a serene escape, revealing a peaceful side of England’s southern counties.
Scenic Beauty and Solitude
As you progress north-east along the rounded ridgetops, the view opens up to distant villages, bushy hedgerows, and rolling green pastures dotted with yellow rapeseed fields. A red kite soars overhead, and a cool breeze ventilates the earthen ramparts of the 2,500-year-old Barbury Castle. This experience feels like stepping into the eye of a hurricane, finding calm amid the chaos.
The Ancient Pathway
Historical Significance
The Ridgeway, an ancient path cutting diagonally across the chalk downs of southern England, links Overton Hill in Wiltshire to the 233m summit of Ivinghoe Beacon in Buckinghamshire, just 33 miles from London. Part of a much longer trading route that once connected the coasts of Dorset and Norfolk, this trackway follows a chalk escarpment acting as a natural dividing line between low-lying vales and river headwaters.
From Prehistory to Modern Times
Initially used as a protective bastion and lookout during the Iron Age, The Ridgeway later served as a military road for Saxon armies and a farm track for medieval drovers and herders. In 1973, it was designated a National Trail and recently celebrated its 50th anniversary with a special walk and a year-long treasure hunt highlighting its top-50 features, from inspiring writers like JRR Tolkien and Thomas Hardy to appearing in the 2019 Star Wars film “The Rise of Skywalker.”
Exploring The Ridgeway
Neolithic and Iron Age Landmarks
Proof of The Ridgeway’s antiquity is everywhere. The path is dotted with Neolithic burial mounds, Iron Age hill forts, and the famous Uffington White Horse, a 3,000-year-old chalk etching in Oxfordshire. Historical evidence suggests the path has been in regular use for at least 5,000 years, possibly making it the oldest continuously used path in Europe.
The Journey Begins: Overton Hill to Avebury
Starting at Overton Hill, a site of special archaeological interest, the journey begins with a stroll to one of Britain’s oldest gravesites, the West Kennet Long Barrow, a chambered burial mound built around 3650 BCE. In nearby Avebury, you can explore a Bronze Age stone circle contemporaneous with Stonehenge and the giant manmade mound of Silbury Hill, as large as Giza’s pyramids and nearly as old.
The Ridgeway’s Two Halves
The North Wessex Downs
The Ridgeway is a journey of two distinct halves divided by the River Thames at a natural gap called the Goring Gap. To the west, the North Wessex Downs rise, an elongated chalk ridge topped by four pre-Roman hillforts: Barbury Castle, Liddington Castle, Uffington Castle, and Segsbury Camp. This area also features two notable geoglyphs, the Uffington White Horse and Hackpen White Horse.
The Chilterns
To the east lie the more wooded Chilterns, where ancient beech forests are embellished by bluebells in spring and dotted with houses built with local flint stone. Both regions have been designated “Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty,” harboring a gentle, timeless quality. In the North Wessex Downs, the landscape has changed little since the intensification of farming in the 1700s.
Walking The Ridgeway
A Peaceful Journey
Walking The Ridgeway, you can enjoy miles of countryside that have remained untouched by modern development. Settlements are located in the valleys due to the lack of water sources on the uplands, leaving the ridgetops to nature. On the first morning, only one significant road was crossed, and no sizeable village was encountered until Streatley, at the 40-mile mark.
Quintessentially English Scenery
While the scenery might not be as spectacular as the Alps or the Rockies, the grassy coombes (dry valleys) and rustling beech copses that punctuate the route are quintessentially English. Walkers and ramblers regard them with deep reverence.
The Views from The Ridgeway
Perspectives and Insights
“The Ridgeway forms an interface between the lowland and the chalk downs,” explains Dave Cavanagh, a trustee of the Friends of the Ridgeway who lives close to the trail in the village of Uffington. From The Ridgeway, you can look north over the Vale of White Horse to the Cotswolds and Chilterns, or west over the Vale of Aylesbury. This contrast offers a different world up on the downs, providing a great getting-away-from-it feeling.
Immersed in Ancient Surroundings
As you progress along The Ridgeway, you become increasingly immersed in its ancient surroundings. Horses are a recurring theme on the downs, with most of the path designated as a public bridleway dotted with sloping pastures and “gallops” where jockeys train for races.
Modern Intersections
Navigating Modern Obstacles
As you enter the Chilterns, the trail becomes less remote, crossing roads and meandering through occasional villages. Modern obstacles sometimes interrupt the path, requiring navigation across a busy golf course fairway and the private driveway of Chequers, the country residence of the British prime minister.
Accommodation and Pubs
Nights are spent in a mix of B&Bs, hostels, and pubs. Despite the perception of disappearing rural pubs, they remain integral to Ridgeway folklore. Offering comfortable rooms and full English breakfasts, they provide a highlight of the route. Some establishments require a diversion to a nearby village, while others, like the Bull Inn at Streatley and the Shoulder of Mutton in Wendover, sit directly on the trail.
Increasing Popularity
Growing Interest
While human traffic on The Ridgeway appears relatively light, usage has noticeably increased in recent years, especially since the pandemic. The path is within easy reach of many thousands of people, including residents of Swindon, Luton, and London. With much of The Ridgeway being level with a good chalk surface, walking is accessible and enjoyable.
Celebrating the 50th Anniversary
The 50th anniversary of The Ridgeway as a designated National Trail saw a 10-fold increase in followers on the Friends of the Ridgeway Facebook page. Mary Tebje, comms support for the Ridgeway National Trail, emphasizes the importance of reminding people why these countryside spaces are vital for exercise, family time, learning about and caring for biodiversity, history, heritage, and even climate change.
The Challenge of Weather
Facing Nature’s Elements
Weather can be a challenge on The Ridgeway. Heavy rain on the final day turned the path in the Chilterns into a quagmire of thick, slippery mud. Undeterred, the journey continued, aware of the hallowed ground beneath.
Unearthing Mysteries
Despite its antiquity, The Ridgeway continues to reveal new secrets. In April 2019, waterpipe workers digging near the trail at Letcombe Bassett unearthed 3,000-year-old remains of 26 skeletons, possibly part of a human sacrifice.
Conclusion
The Ridgeway’s Enduring Legacy
Concluding the walk with an exhausted arrival at a provincial station for a short train ride into London, the enduring legacy of The Ridgeway is clear. This ancient pathway continues to fascinate and reveal its mysteries, offering a timeless journey through England’s rich history and natural beauty.
