Maakalla: Europe’s Isolated, Autonomous Island
Introduction
Maakalla, an isolated island off Finland’s western coast, comes alive each summer, offering a fascinating glimpse into Finland’s past. This 20-hectare island, located in Bothnian Bay, transforms with the seasons, providing a unique blend of natural beauty and historical intrigue. This guide explores Maakalla’s rich history, autonomous status, and the traditions that make it a hidden gem in Europe.
The Changing Seasons on Maakalla
A Glimpse of Life in Late September
In late September, Maakalla is a serene, solitary place. The last signs of life are a few trees sprouting wild berries, soon to be buried under winter’s snow. The sky, a deep blue, reflects off the roofs of empty wooden cabins scattered across the island. “I believe we’re the only ones here,” whispers Martta Tervonen, my guide for the day. As we walk along the island’s stony pathways, the sound of crashing waves plays on a loop.
Geological History: Rising from the Sea
Maakalla’s unique geological history adds to its allure. “When the island was discovered by fishermen and seal hunters in the 15th Century, it was only 9mm above the water’s surface,” explains Matti Hautala, the boat captain who brought us here from Keskuskari harbour on the mainland. Due to glacio-isostatic uplift, a phenomenon where land rises as the weight of Ice Age glaciers melts, the island now sits more than 5m above sea level.
An Unconventional Island
No Modern Conveniences
Maakalla is far from conventional. There are no shops, restaurants, cars, or roads. The only structures are wooden cabins, some adorned with seal skulls on their doors. As the island slowly rose from the sea, it became a key fishing hub for Baltic herring. However, by the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the growth of farming and other industries reduced the need for fishermen to spend long periods away from their families.
Summer Resurgence
Today, a small number of fishermen return to their ancestral cabins each summer, bringing necessary supplies to survive. From May to September, Maakalla awakens from its ghost town slumber, with day-trippers visiting to glimpse old Finnish customs and traditions.
Autonomous Governance
Historical Autonomy
Although Maakalla is part of Finland, it enjoys autonomous status, governed by a council of local fishermen elected every summer. This tradition dates back to 1771 when King Adolf Fredrik of Sweden granted the island self-governance due to its remote nature. Despite Finland’s changing political landscape, including periods under Russian control and eventual independence in 1917, Maakalla’s unique status has endured.
Dual Laws
As Hautala explains, “Nobody lives here permanently.” During summer, about 20 people stay on the island, but it’s deserted for the rest of the year. Consequently, Maakalla’s residents live by dual laws: they follow the island council’s rules during their stay and adhere to EU and NATO regulations on the mainland.
Cultural Heritage and Traditions
The Fisherman’s Huts
Hautala, who comes from a long line of local fishermen, recounts his family’s connection to Maakalla. His grandfather once owned one of the island’s traditional huts, or kalamaja, which can only be inherited through ancestry. “None of the huts here can be bought or sold,” he says. Once approximately 150 huts existed, but today less than 50 remain, maintained by the council.
The Council’s Meeting Place
The island’s council gathers every summer at a large moss-coated rock surrounded by smaller stones for meetings. These gatherings are crucial for electing council members and making important decisions, such as handling crimes committed on the island – which are rare.
Unique Landmarks
Among Maakalla’s landmarks is the smallest lighthouse you’ll ever see, standing no taller than an average adult. Local custom dictates that visitors must add a stone to the lighthouse’s base, raising its height each year. Nearby, a cabin once housed the island priest, who also served as the mayor. Now, only a mayor is elected annually, while a priest visits to officiate the council ceremony and weddings at the chapel.
The Maakalla Museum
Our exploration leads us to the newly built Maakalla Museum, displaying historical artifacts and text in Finnish. Black-and-white photos and old maps adorn the walls, along with stone slabs that once covered fishermen’s buckets used to store Baltic herrings. Details about the island’s seal hunting history are particularly intriguing.
Visiting Maakalla
Getting There
Travellers can visit Maakalla only by boat and with a private guide. SeaFox Kalajoki operates three-hour ferry excursions from Keskuskari harbour from May to October. A 4.5-hour trip aboard the Galeas Ansio sailboat from Konikarvo harbour includes a visit to the island, a fish soup meal, coffee, and refreshments.
Seal Hunting Tradition
In late spring, as the ice begins to melt, Maakalla’s seal hunters set out on boats to hunt seals, a practice believed to help regulate the seal population, which competes with fishermen for fish.
The Island Church
The 1780-built wooden church is perhaps Maakalla’s most striking man-made feature. Painted red with yellow accents, the church’s ceiling resembles an inverted ship, with a wooden boat hanging from its center. Many fishermen married here over the centuries, and the church is now popular for destination weddings.
Enduring Traditions and Seasonal Life
The Last Residents
As we traverse the island, we meet Marja-Liisa, one of the last residents of the season. She recounts her childhood summers spent on the island and the family traditions she continues with her husband. They bring enough supplies to last their stay, as the island has no shops or farms.
Sustainable Living
Electricity on Maakalla is generated by solar power, but islanders still use seawater for cooking. Marja-Liisa’s breakfast often includes sea buckthorn and lingonberries foraged from the island. The couple enjoys traditional cinnamon- and sugar-dusted rusks (korppu) as they prepare to leave for the winter.
Conclusion
Maakalla, with its unique history, autonomous status, and seasonal way of life, offers a fascinating glimpse into Finland’s past. The island’s isolation, traditions, and governance create a captivating experience for visitors. As the last residents prepare to leave, Maakalla once again embraces its winter solitude, ready to reawaken next summer with stories of resilience and tradition.
Additional Travel Tips
- Best Time to Visit: The ideal time to visit Maakalla is between May and September when the island is accessible and inhabited.
- Travel Requirements: Access is only possible by boat with a private guide. Plan your visit in advance.
- Supplies: Bring necessary supplies, as there are no shops or restaurants on the island.
- Respect Traditions: Adhere to local customs, such as adding a stone to the lighthouse’s base upon arrival.
- Weather Preparation: Be prepared for changing weather conditions, even in summer.
Maakalla stands as a testament to Finland’s rich history and enduring traditions. Its unique blend of isolation and community offers a truly immersive experience, making it a must-visit destination for those seeking a deeper understanding of Finland’s cultural heritage.
