Introduction:
As many Americans fire up the grill to celebrate Independence Day this Fourth of July, it’s the perfect time to revisit the fascinating origins of one of the nation’s most beloved foods: the hot dog.
The Hot Dog: An American Icon
fIf there is any food that embodies Americana, it’s the hot dog. These bunned frankfurters are a staple at baseball games, backyard barbecues, and roadside convenience stores from coast to coast. This quintessential American food emerged in the 1860s as the United States began to rebuild and forge a new national identity following the Civil War. While hot dogs are now a ubiquitous part of American cuisine, their iconic home remains the boardwalk of New York City’s Coney Island.
A Journey to Coney Island in American Hot Dog History
In the midst of a sweltering New York City summer, escaping to the breezy seashore of Coney Island can be a refreshing reprieve. This Brooklyn amusement park is a blend of kitsch and family-friendly fun, featuring a wooden boardwalk, golden sand, and a variety of rides, games, and food joints that have been entertaining New Yorkers for over a century. At the corner of Surf and Stillwell Avenues, a line of beachgoers can be seen under the tall, white signs of “Nathan’s Famous,” proudly advertising “World famous frankfurters since 1916.”
The True Origin of the Coney Island Hot Dog
While Nathan’s Famous hot dogs have become synonymous with Coney Island, they were not the first hot dogs served there. According to Brooklyn native and Coney Island historian Michael Quinn, a German immigrant named Charles L. Feltman was selling hot dogs along this bustling strip decades before Nathan’s appeared on the scene.
Charles Feltman: The Pioneer of the Hot Dog
Charles Feltman arrived in the US in 1856, bringing with him a love for the frankfurter sausages common in his homeland. As a trained baker, Feltman opened a Brooklyn bakery in 1865 and earned a modest living delivering pies to Coney Island businesses. As the newly opened Coney Island and Brooklyn Railroad brought more visitors to the seaside in the late 1860s, Feltman’s customers expressed a desire for hot food, not cold clams. In response, Feltman commissioned a custom cart equipped with a charcoal brazier for cooking sausages and a metal box for warming bread.
The Birth of the “Coney Island Red Hot”
In the summer of 1867, Feltman began selling his “Coney Island red hots” for a nickel each. Unlike the traditional German frankfurters served without bread, Feltman’s innovation of serving the sausage in a bun made it convenient to eat at the beach. This American adaptation of a German beer-garden specialty was an instant hit.
Feltman’s Ocean Pavilion: An Empire Built on Hot Dogs
In 1871, Feltman leased a small seaside plot and opened Feltman’s Ocean Pavilion. The success of his hot dogs led to rapid expansion, and by the turn of the century, Feltman’s enterprise had grown into a vast complex with nine restaurants, a roller coaster, carousel, ballroom, outdoor movie theater, hotel, beer garden, bathhouse, pavilion, and even an Alpine village. At its peak, Feltman’s was churning out up to 40,000 hot dogs a day.
Nathan Handwerker: A New Challenger in American Hot Dog History
In the midst of this early 20th-century hot dog boom, Feltman’s hired a Polish immigrant named Nathan Handworker, whose job was to slice rolls. Encouraged by friends to start his own business, Handworker opened his own hot dog stand in 1916, just blocks away from Feltman’s. To attract customers, he sold his hot dogs for a nickel each, undercutting Feltman’s price of a dime.
The Decline and Revival of Feltman’s
Feltman’s business thrived until the 1940s when the family sold the business. The new owners struggled to maintain the brand, and Feltman’s eventually closed in 1954. For over half a century, Nathan’s was the dominant name on the Coney Island boardwalk. However, the legacy of Feltman’s did not fade away completely.
Reviving the Feltman’s Brand
Michael Quinn, whose grandfather was a loyal Feltman’s customer, set out to revive the brand in honor of his late brother, who died in the World Trade Center on 9/11. Quinn acquired the Feltman’s name in 2015 and reopened a small takeout window in the East Village. In May 2017, he finally reestablished Feltman’s at its original Coney Island location.
The Modern Hot Dog Experience
Today, Feltman’s hot dogs are renowned for their quality. Made from premium beef with a blend of spices and no additives, these hot dogs have been named among the US’s 10 best by The Daily Meal. The reopening of Feltman’s has also brought recognition, including a Guinness World Record for the world’s largest hot dog, a 75-pound, 5-foot-long bunned behemoth.
The Enduring Legacy of Nathan’s
While Feltman’s has regained a loyal following, Nathan’s Famous Inc. has grown into an international empire. The annual Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Contest, televised across the country, has become a staple of Fourth of July celebrations. Nathan’s hot dogs are now sold in more than 55,000 supermarkets, club stores, and restaurants in over 10 countries.
A Taste Test Challenge
For those curious about the ongoing rivalry between these two iconic brands, a taste test is the best way to decide. Feltman’s hot dogs can be found in select supermarkets and online, while Nathan’s hot dogs are widely available. Each brand offers a unique flavor and history, making them both worthy of a place in the American culinary tradition.
Conclusion: American Hot Dog History
The hot dog, a symbol of American culture, has a rich history that extends beyond the backyard grill and baseball stadium. From Charles Feltman’s innovative Coney Island red hoots to Nathan Handworker’s competitive pricing, the evolution of the hot dog is a story of entrepreneurship, adaptation, and enduring popularity. Whether you prefer the traditional taste of Feltman’s or the widespread appeal of Nathan’s, the humble hot dog remains a beloved part of American cuisine. So this Fourth of July, as you enjoy your hot dog, take a moment to appreciate the history and heritage behind this iconic food.
